Thanks for the kind comments.
I have been 'confined to barracks' by the doctor, so as an antidote to daytime TV I have built another one of the wooden bodied tubs, and taken some photos to show how they are put together.
The body is made from 5mm x 1.5mm strip wood. The stuff I used was from the local R/C model aircraft shop and it is not basswood. Not being an expert I do not know what sort of wood it is - all I can say for certain is that it is from a tree! I used a toolmakers clamp on my mitre block to ensure all of the pieces are the same length.
For each wagon body you will need 10 pieces at 55mm long for the sides, 10 pieces at 33mm long for the ends and 12 pieces at 36mm long for the floor.
The wood I had was a bit 'splintery' but this was used to advantage and worked in to damage on individual planks. The pieces were distressed a bit with some very coarse abrasive strip from a belt sander before being glued together with the aliphatic resin. My poor long suffering mitre block was flipped upside down and used to ensure that the panels were flat. The ends of the pieces were lined up with the edge of the mitre block to ensure square ends to the panels.
Once all the panels had set one side was centred on the floor and an end added.
This was checked for square and then other side and end were added. The floor was trimmed to length once the glue had set.
All of the ironwork was made from Evergreen styrene strip (Evergreen item numbers in brackets). The corner plates were added first, made from 0.5mm x 4.8mm (128). Once again the mitre block was used to ensure that the edges lined up.
I fixed the styrene to the wooden parts with the Plastic Weld. This was applied to the edges of the styrene parts and gets drawn in by capillary action, fusing the plastic to the wood.
Once the plastic had hardened, the corner was given a slight radius to represent a piece of steel plate that has been folded, and trimmed to match the height of the sides.
The underframe was next, being made from more Evergreen styrene sections.Two pieces of 3.2mm x 6.3mm (189) at 51mm long were needed for the solebars. The headstocks were made from two pieces of 2mm x 6.3mm (169) at 36mm long and another two pieces at 22mm long. The 22mm long pieces are spacers for the solebars and were glued in the centre of the 36mm pieces. Wood grain was added using the coarse abrasive strip.
The notch in the top of the headstock is for the DG couplings that I am using.
In yet another abuse of my tools, one solebar and headstock were assembled on the try square.
You do have to remember to get the notch for the coupling the right way up when assembling the second solebar and headstock! The two part underfames were fixed together on the bottom of the mitre block.
Once this had set it was fixed to the bottom of the wagon body, then the rest of the ironwork was added. The strips in centres of the sides are 0.5mm x 3.2mm (126), with the channels on the end being 0.5mm x 3.2mm (126) for the bottom, and 0.5mm x 2.5mm (125) for the sides of the channel. The channels on the ends are set 5mm from the corner plates. Trim to match the sides once everything has set.
A simple jig made from a bit of styrene strip ensured that all the holes for the bolts lined up - this is aligned with the top of the body sides/ends and a drill used to spot the bolt positions on to the ironwork.
The spotted hole positions were then drilled through and the bolt heads added. The ones I used are O scale 2 1/2 inch nuts on a bolt from EDM Models. Make sure you have plenty of bolt heads to hand as these wagons use loads.
The axle boxes are inspired by the cast ones fitted to the Deptford 18 inch gauge wagons and used more Evergreen styrene. Each one needs a 36mm long piece of 0.5mm x 4.8mm (128) and 0.5mm x 3.2mm (126), a scrap of the 0.5 mm x 3.2mm and four 4.8mm pieces of 2mm x 4.8mm (168).
The wheel base is spotted on to the 0.5mm x 4.8mm strip, 2mm from what will become the top edge. Axle boxes are two of the 2mm thick 4.8mm squares glued together. Assembly was carried out on the trusty mitre block to ensure that the top was square to the side.
The assemblies were then tidied up and the previously spotted holes drilled right through for the wheel bearings. At this stage the wheel bearings are not glued in to place.
Wheels are Hornby R8096, and these were added at the same time as the axle box assemblies were added to the underframe. Check that the axles are parallel with the ends of the wagon.
Once the axle boxes were secure on the underframe a small screwdriver was used through the holes in the axle boxes to adjust the wheel bearings so that the wheel sets are central in the wagon and free running. A small drop of superglue in the axle box holes secured the bearings, then the hole was covered with a square cut from 0.5mm x 3.2mm (126) styrene strip.
The last thing to add was a small piece of Evergreen 1mm diameter rod (211) in a drilled hole to represent an oil filling point.
This is the latest one waiting for a visit to the paint shop.
I decided that the latest wagon has had new top planks fitted and the wagon was put back in to service before they were painted.
All three together.
Couplings and a layer of grot still to add to all three. If you have managed to stay awake to this point, congratulations!!
Feel free to try building one or more of these little wagons to the recipe above, I would like to see the results.