The Top yard! - Gn15 [1/24]

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Moderator: GnATTERbox Moderators

User avatar
Little Andi.
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 3:27 pm
Location: Leic's East-Mid's - UK.
Interests: Interested in Narrow gauge modelling within a dioramic context.

The Top yard! - Gn15 [1/24]

Postby Little Andi. » Wed May 19, 2010 12:24 pm

Here we go then..........

The first module for Belle Lane. This is being built in conjunction with another modeller on the site - in as much as he is building the "Bottom yard", I'll leave him to reveal himself although it shouldn't take much guessing.

Now with a little cajoling I've taken the plunge and revealed this project at such an early stage as most of you know this really is a first time for me - never laid track before, wired up before or made actuating points before............. and all this before I get to the bit I really want to do which is make the models themselves and play trains a bit.

Here is a couple of sketches of the intended layout and it's track plan........

Image

Image

You can see this is effectively an Estate railway, modelled in Gn15 [1/24th], the baseboard measures 40"x19" - seemingly spurious measurements but blame the co-producer for those!!!

The baseboard has already been made - weapons grade with 2x1 framing and capped with 6mm MDF - I would anticipate this constant juxtaposition between Imperial and Metric denominations will continue - You just have to get used to it like I did as a lad.

The track will exit the board stage left and right - thus it will have a return board at each end to make it a loop, but the main reason is that this and bottom yard can be potentially connected should they ever end up in the same room?

Now then............. I've trawled the net for information on Electrics and making the points work - what to do before I pin/glue the tracks down and to be quite honest most people seemed to be advising me from within their own colon!!!
I need it dead simple, reliable and do-able for a newbie! - I'm prepared to apply myself and learn a little but in truth this part is to me just a means to an end - and as such a little bit of an annoyance! I want it right but I don't want this next bit to be the "be all and end all" of what I'm trying to achieve.
Sorry if that comes across as a bit sniffy - especially when I'm asking for help! - PS I'm really carp at electrics, this from whence my angst emerges.......... If I need to buy a soldering iron? - Which flavour do I get??

Ask away as I know I haven't sated all of everyone's curiosity with this little diatribe/outburst/incoherent gibberish........ sobbing plea for help and assistance.

I anticipate your laughter......................
Last edited by Little Andi. on Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
KBO .......................... Andi.

User avatar
dieselwater
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1021
Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2008 4:19 pm
Location: Taipei, Taiwan
Interests: Model railways, painting, guitar

Postby dieselwater » Wed May 19, 2010 1:36 pm

Hi Andi,

Every time I start a Gnew project I feel the same, ooh eck crikey! :shock: I know how you feel about electricals and such like too. Your plan is inspiring. Not only in its draftsmanship but in its clarity. Just keep plodding along step by step and you'll have it proper sorted. Basically... KBO!

So come on, who is it? :wink:
Little old lines to somewhere.

David.

User avatar
Willow Creek Traction
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 923
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 5:14 am
Location: Boonville, Missouri, USA
Interests: HO, On30, G/Hn15, regular G, kites, model rockets, the occasional model boat, retro sci-fi miniatures game.

Re: The Top yard!

Postby Willow Creek Traction » Wed May 19, 2010 3:31 pm

Little Andi. wrote:... this really is a first time for me - never laid track before, wired up before or made actuating points before...

Eh, no biggie, there was a time before you'd ever made a model building and look where you are now :D 8)

I like the track arrangement. Covered platform at right is appealing.
Trains coming and going through gate on left is a neat idea.
later, Forrest Today's scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality. -- Nikola Tesla, July, 1934

AndyB
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 6:19 pm
Location: Hampshire, England
Interests: Gn15, 'O' Gauge, O14

Postby AndyB » Wed May 19, 2010 3:53 pm

Andi
laughter.... no... your questions are quite pertinent.

There are many ways of addressing the pointwork activation issue:

manual - using a 'wire in tube' method - you only have four points to worry about so the wires could be activated from the front by attaching handles to them and having some form of sprung latching on the point (see later in this post).

electric (version 1) - using peco/SEEP point (armature type) motors, a capacitor discharge unit, some brass screw/bolts and a biro wired up to be a probe...

electric (version 2) - using a point motor like the Tortoise or Fulgarex - the Tortoise can be wired as always on - the design allows the motor to stall on low current and maintain pressure on the point tie bar.

electric (version 3) - use a servo (like wot they use in radio control aircraft :) ) , an electronic controller board is required to manage (drive) the servos (a single board can often drive four servos) - the servos can be of the cheap variety and they are incredibly tough accurate little beasts.

All the electric solutions could be driven by a DCC (digital control) system if you were mad enough - possibly a bit over the top :)

All of the above solutions however ideally need a 'point actuator' - that is some thing that sits below your baseboard, manages where the point blades are and allows the drive from the wire/motor to be adjusted/managed/manipulated. The best (and most basic) I have seen is the use of a small piece of curtain rail (alumina extrusion variety) which has had a long slot cut in it to allow a wire (or even two wires) up through the baseboard to control the point blades and has an internal runner (in plastic/nylon) to attach the drive shaft cum control wire to - preferably in several places to allow adjustment. This actuator could be fitted with a micro switch to control the polarity of the point 'frog' crossing and indicator lights etc... 8)

The peco points have built in polarity changing (in most of their range) and they also have a sprung tie bar... but for your design, I think you are going to have to build something a bit more custom (see some of the other ongoing threads on building track...) to fit the tight nature of the site... how brave are you?

Andy B

ps for electrical wiring I keep a 25W soldering iron with a good short small section bit that I keep exclusively for the use of multicore electrical solder... nothing fancy.
pps have you planned how you are going to wire this track layout up - would you like some specific help?
regards Andy
--------------------------------------------------------
Clear Desk, Sick Mind...
Those who have a clear desk will never know the joy of finding something they thought they had lost a long time ago.

User avatar
Little Andi.
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 3:27 pm
Location: Leic's East-Mid's - UK.
Interests: Interested in Narrow gauge modelling within a dioramic context.

Postby Little Andi. » Wed May 19, 2010 5:40 pm

AndyB..... and anyone else earwigging?

Thanks for your response, I did try and research this a bit before I offered myself as a sacrifice to the board.
In fact I swear I saw a sbs using a rod underneath the board somehow hung through eyehooks - there was I'm sure a sort of ohms sign bent into the rod to handle any excess pressure whilst pulling and pushing - or did I dream this.
Andy..... I'm erring on the mechanical side of everything as this medium suits my head - If I can see how it works I can probably fix/amend/adjust it, - electrics I just tend to keep releasing the smoke out of everything.

vis-a-vie the wiring of the track....... track-plan posted to sate anyone's curiosity but also in the hope that some kind soul would say something along the lines of - "Here's your train - and here's your wall plug............ This is what needs to happen in between".

I've read about "droppers" needing to go on first, soldering track and feeds...... and all sorts - this is when I chose to throw myself on the mercy of the board.
As Ian has been prepared to build track live warts and all I'm more than prepared to sacrifice any kind of pride or humility in order to successfully get through this next track and wiring phase.

PS........... this yard is also [in the real imaginary world] going to take a lot of wheeled traffic - that's wot the gates is for] So how would these points have been actuated in real life so that the mechanisms didn't interfere with any manoeuvring vehicular traffic? The yard will be made up of cobbles, sets and ash-rubble...... all in order to give credence to the fact that this place has evolved over a couple of centuries or more, probably even the manorial farm back in a day before it got absorbed as part of the landed demesne.

PPS............ I will post pic's as soon as there's something to see, if I posted pic's of the base board there would I'm sure be howls of derision because it's not made out of butterfly wings or something.

It really is a weapons grade base board.


Laters................................................
KBO .......................... Andi.

User avatar
gfadvance
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 533
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Manchester, UK
Interests: Models of all sorts boats, planes and now G15

Postby gfadvance » Wed May 19, 2010 5:40 pm

Watching wth interest Andi,

"Bottom yard", I'll leave him to reveal himself

With that build up who is going to be brave enough to admit it.

I do think, hand laid track, with own built points all radio controlled is the way to go :wink:

To quote your own words .... KBO
Gordon F

User avatar
Geeky Gecko
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 268
Joined: Thu May 10, 2007 4:56 pm
Location: Yorkshire
Interests: modelling in card

Postby Geeky Gecko » Wed May 19, 2010 7:15 pm

I like the look of your planned buildings, Andi.
From looking at the plan, can we assume your points are going to be Peco? I still count myself as a beginner, so probably not qualified to advise, but if you use dead frogs like I have, you are more likely to have running problems. I do. Wiring will be more complicated though if you use live frogs.
Decide where your isolation sections are going to be and make sure they are long enough for the engines/trains. I didn't. If you put too many isolated sections in you can always connect them electrically later.
Point operating rods only need an omega spring if you are using a slide switch to isolate /change frog polarity at the same time and it is linked to the tie bar.
If your track is inset into cobbles etc any soldered dropper wires can be soldered on the side of the rail after track laying and hidden afterwards.
Stefan

User avatar
Little Andi.
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 3:27 pm
Location: Leic's East-Mid's - UK.
Interests: Interested in Narrow gauge modelling within a dioramic context.

Postby Little Andi. » Wed May 19, 2010 7:39 pm

Yes, thanks Stefan...............

And for anyone that might be cogitating an answer - YES, I'll be using PECO Electrofrog points, I was/am of the understanding these were the desired types?

Things such as isolation sections and the like are all things I need to know about - Perhaps I should just ask out loudly - Please show me how to make this work!!!
Joking apart - there'll be trains delivering and held to the left workshop siding, and to the right - the domestic or house siding. This is where all the materials that a big house requires is collated and having been delivered from points around the estate - everything from timber to produce will be eased into the machine that is the inner workings of a large Stately home and estate.,
The workshop siding obviously caters for the immediate needs of the more agricultural elements of the estate.
Coupled with a constant stream of visitors and deliveries through the gate................ Company rep's hawking their wares, veterinary, coal-man, assorted domestic tradesmen et al.
And of course the front track just for running the trains round and round.

I do hope it meets with most everyone's approval? It's been started and I've announced it as such - so it's a genuine bona fide project.
KBO .......................... Andi.

foswaldy13
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 245
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:58 am
Location: Missouri, USA
Interests: Music, photography, travelling, College Football

Postby foswaldy13 » Wed May 19, 2010 8:22 pm

Andi, I really like the look of the layout. Looks like it will be lots of fun to play trains on. However I noticed that you did not include the Belle Lane treehouse. Will this be part of a future module?

Andi, maybe someone here can create a wiring diagram for you showing leads and isolations points :?: I normally wouldn't volunteer other people but wiring is not one of my stronger abilities.
Matt Oswald

AndyB
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 6:19 pm
Location: Hampshire, England
Interests: Gn15, 'O' Gauge, O14

Postby AndyB » Wed May 19, 2010 8:41 pm

well for starters here a a few images of a point actuator...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7434592@N08/4622624524/
sorry they are a bit blurred (taken on a phone camera... )
Above is what it starts up like - plastic (in this case) curtain rail, chopped up and drilled...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7434592@N08/4622624602/in/photostream/
develops into the above... the bolt goes straight up into the tiebar of the point (Peco in this case)

and finally one showing the point motor as well

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7434592@N08/4622017995/in/photostream/

I much prefer the linkages to be accessible below the baseboard... learnt from the painful experience of trying to fix and repair embedded control rods and omega loops in my younger days :?

For joining normal track sections metal peco fishplates can be used... for
the track isolated sections, these can be done with Peco isolating fishplates (clear plastic fish plates...)... as you are burying the track its all going to be hidden.
Yes by all means put wire droppers in, just make sure you you use nice soft bendy brass wire

I can do you a wiring diagram if you wish (if you don't mind waiting)... :)
regards Andy

--------------------------------------------------------

Clear Desk, Sick Mind...

Those who have a clear desk will never know the joy of finding something they thought they had lost a long time ago.

User avatar
Ian-IoM
Seasoned Campaigner
Seasoned Campaigner
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:05 am
Location: Isle of Man
Interests: Narrow gauge & industrial railways, model making, drinking beer, eating cheese and listening to Pere Ubu.

Postby Ian-IoM » Wed May 19, 2010 10:06 pm

'fraid I can't offer much practical advice here, never having actually built a working layout :oops:

I do like your drawing though, looks like a great scene and I'm sure you have the skill to do it justice - I'll be watching this project with great interest :D (That building to the right of the gate, under the "office" legend, seems to ring a bell - has Santo's found a new home :?: )
Ian K
Be seeing you...

User avatar
PeterH
Seasoned Campaigner
Seasoned Campaigner
Posts: 444
Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:54 am
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Interests: Railway history, drinking beer

Postby PeterH » Wed May 19, 2010 10:28 pm

Hey - your layout has a very nice feel to it already. Good proportions, good ideas. Even a demesne.

Ouch - electrics are a lot to learn. Here is my opinion. You will need to solder here. Use a temperature controlled iron with an assortment of small tinned bits (never file a bit). Use a flux you don't need to clean off afterwards - Carrs make one. Tin all surfaces before soldering. Just-stripped wire does not need cleaning first, but everything else does; use very fine sandpaper and a degreaser like acetone or isopropyl alcohol (milder). Practice a lot.

You need a way to tell if a track has power or not - lights or LEDs are just ok, but I'd suggest buying a cheap meter.

Use stranded wire for wiring, not so thin it breaks easily and not so thick it is hard to sit in place.

Then into the confusion of isolating sections and wiring. I'd say your layout is unique enough that you will get advice but ultimately you will need to understand it yourself. So you can start simple.

1 Get a piece of straight track and a board and power it up to run a loco - you will need to figure out how to join a wire to each rail.

2 Then get straight track and a point and figure out how to power that.

3 Then get 2 bits of straight track end-to-end and figure how to power them together or isolated (needs a switch). See how the loco behaves.

After all that you will know enough to wire your model with skill & aplomb.

-------------

In real life - all the points like this I have seen have been hand operated in the usual way from a lever just beside the tips of the moving bits:

- In crowded places I have seen a slot in the concrete so that presumably the lever can be loosened and lowered into the slot when not in use.

- But H & S wasn't an issue then and painting the handles white would be the thing.

- If the lever can't be in the usual place because there is another bit of track there, then the tie rod can extend under the track to the lever.

Remember that an estate railway was lucky to have one point, so tripping over the levers wasn't such an issue.
Peter

User avatar
JackBlack
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:48 pm
Location: Ferntree Gully, Australia
Interests: Model Trains, Drawing, Reading Mags

Postby JackBlack » Thu May 20, 2010 7:39 am

Hi Andi, I'm a first timer as well, so your not the only one.
Jack

14 & can't decide on a trackplan.

User avatar
AndyA
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 887
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2003 12:24 am
Location: Southampton, England
Interests: Railways, Folk music, food, travel
Andy died 14-Sep-2017 and will post no more. Travel well on your new guage.

Postby AndyA » Fri May 21, 2010 7:13 am

I'd say your layout is unique enough that you will get advice but ultimately you will need to understand it yourself. So you can start simple.


Great advice. The sequence is good as well, and as possibly one of the worst solderers on this list (gnot having the excuse of lack of experience) I agree that practicing with two bits of straight and some joiners is good. If you really want help with the crossover points (the only bit you won't have learned by then, ask, because although it's been covered before, the search engine doesn't work as well as it might.

The two things I still, after thirty years and I suspect much to the displeasure of the shade of the guy who tried to teach me on my university course, find hardest, are soldering things that move around, and not melting the plastic bits on the track. The latter is solvable by soldering first and then cutting away the unwanted sleepers, starting with the ones you melted. :)

There's a vast amount of advice on here - if you search for "solder" and "AndyA", you'll find more threads than you can shake a stick at, all with brilliant advice to me every time I messed something up.

regards
Andy A
Gn15: Gnot so much a scale, more a state of mind
gnine: less is the gnew more
GnTonic - enjoy irresponsibly

User avatar
gfadvance
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 533
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Manchester, UK
Interests: Models of all sorts boats, planes and now G15

Postby gfadvance » Fri May 21, 2010 7:03 pm

OK folks having had a quick conversation with Andi...... we both need help!!

In the UK we now have a government coalition made up of Conservatives & Liberals ........ Andi and I have done much the same and formed a coalition he is making the Top Yard and I'm going to make the Bottom Yard ....... as I see myself somewhere to the right of Genghis Khan I'll leave you to figure out where Andi is ?

Now Andi's first mistake was to agree to join with a guy who knows even less than he does, so when we discuss electrics it is a very short conversation ... I don't know, do you not know, no I thought you did, etc, etc, etc.
So we need a Step by Step, what wire, what switches , what type of switch, etc

Here is a schematic for the top yard, rewards of jaffa cakes, mars bars, etc will be showered on the individual who can resolve this in the simplest way possible so that Andi can get back to building models ... and possibly trying on his "Fat Controllers uniform"

Image

Now I have added what little knowledge I have, I can already hear "a dangerous thing a......"

As Andi is using electro frogs, I presume following statements are correct

* Power needs to be fed in at A, B & C - would it be better fed in at C or F ?

* Isolation sections are D & E so that Andi can park up his large fleet of locos

* Completely confused over area covered by E this is a loop made by 2 Wye points facing each other , and it has a point in the middle of the loop as well! - so I presume it will need an isolation break @ E ? does it need any more ? some where in the back of my mind I seem to think this is where you get into Single/ double pole switches! if so which and where do you wire them in ?

Come on folks , I have great hopes that AndyB will win the prize as he has sorted me out in the past but if the mythical beast one Steve Bennett is around maybe the offer of jaffa cakes will tempt him back to the Gn15 world!!
Gordon F

foswaldy13
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 245
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:58 am
Location: Missouri, USA
Interests: Music, photography, travelling, College Football

Postby foswaldy13 » Fri May 21, 2010 8:09 pm

gfadvance wrote:one Steve Bennett is around maybe the offer of jaffa cakes will tempt him back to the Gn15 world!!


We all know that the only reason Steve sells Gn15 kits is because he needs a good way to recycle the Jaffa Cakes boxes he ship the kits in. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Matt Oswald

Brack
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 128
Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:29 am
Location: North East England
Interests: O9, 15" gauge, industrial modelling

Postby Brack » Fri May 21, 2010 9:11 pm

OK, having wired one layout (it worked first time), I will offer you my advice. feel free to disregard it!

Obviously the isolating sections will need their own power supplies - the easiest way wiring wise to sort this is just to put a break in one of the rails with an SPST on/off switch connected to the rail both sides of the break. if that makes sense. (need positive and negative to move!).

I would personally feed power at A B and F.

insulated joiners on both lines off of point B. plus insulated joiners on the end of point F where it leads onto the loop point.

you wouldn't need to feed power at c as it will receive power from f if the point is switched correctly (which will also provide a second isolated section on the siding).

hope that makes sense, i could clarify it with a diagram if you liked? or you could get someone more capable!

User avatar
Glen A
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1311
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:34 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Interests: Gn15, G 1:24

Postby Glen A » Fri May 21, 2010 9:15 pm

gfadvance wrote: * so I presume it will need an isolation break @ E ? does it need any more ? some where in the back of my mind I seem to think this is where you get into Single/ double pole switches! if so which and where do you wire them in ?

You will need one down the other side of the loop, and another between the loop and the head shunt points.

I can do up a simple diagram.
BUT before that it is necessary to know how many places you want to park locos.
The good thing about live frogs is you can get them to do you isolating work for you; the whole siding can be dead when the point isn't facing that direction. But if you also want to park locos there when the points are correctly set, you need to know that requirement before drawing the plan.

User avatar
gfadvance
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 533
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Manchester, UK
Interests: Models of all sorts boats, planes and now G15

Postby gfadvance » Fri May 21, 2010 9:56 pm

Thanks for the replies think we are making progress.

Diagrams wold be great " picture tell a thousand words....."

Glen , lets work on the basis that Andi wants to park locos at ends sidings at D & E and maybe, guessing here, in the middle of of the front track i.e roughly in position E.

Appreciate that each of the isolation sections require a switch to put power into them when required but does the loop formed at front with the Wye points require any special wiring /switches.

Thanks for your patience - bottom yard is much simpler :wink:
Gordon F

Brack
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 128
Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:29 am
Location: North East England
Interests: O9, 15" gauge, industrial modelling

Postby Brack » Fri May 21, 2010 10:46 pm

Image

the red bars are insulated rail joints/joiners. the blue bits power feeds, and the dodgy looking purple bits are spst on/off toggle switches wired to the rail with the isolating gap for the 2 sections. this way you could isolate locos at the ends of the siding and headshunt using the switches, or through putting it on the siding and changing the point against it, or through putting it in the loop with the points set against it.

not the best diagram in the world, but for a freehand paint sketch using the touchpad on my netbook, it'll hopefully do the trick.

User avatar
Glen A
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1311
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:34 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Interests: Gn15, G 1:24

Postby Glen A » Fri May 21, 2010 10:55 pm

Image

If you want the simpliest wiring plan; this is how I would do it.

NOTE: this plan relies on all points being live frog (peco electro frog). If you use inslu frog it will not work.

Orange lines are issolating breaks in both rails.
Green Arrows are track power feeds to both rails.
(wiring for the point switches has been ommitted for simplicity).
The pink symbols at the engine parks. you only need to isolate one rail, and the take a wire from each side of the cut, and put it into a switch.

Trains can be parked on the front two tracks by turning the points (1, 2) in the opposite direction to the train.

User avatar
Glen A
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1311
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:34 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Interests: Gn15, G 1:24

Postby Glen A » Fri May 21, 2010 10:57 pm

oh, great minds think a-like!
I see someone else has made a better job of drawing the same plan.


EDIT:
And one piece of advice for Andi:
When you lay the siding towards the Metal Shop / forge building, make sure you lay the track right through the building to the edge of the module.
Then when you end up putting the next module on with the half circle on it (as shown in the plan), you have the option to continue the siding on and use it as a hidden fiddle yard to change wagons.

User avatar
gfadvance
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 533
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: Manchester, UK
Interests: Models of all sorts boats, planes and now G15

Postby gfadvance » Sat May 22, 2010 5:41 am

Thanks Brack & Glen .......... think we can expect to see Andi back with a fully functioning layout by say ......... Sunday night.

Andi, sent you an e-mail about points!
Gordon F

User avatar
Little Andi.
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 3:27 pm
Location: Leic's East-Mid's - UK.
Interests: Interested in Narrow gauge modelling within a dioramic context.

Postby Little Andi. » Sun May 23, 2010 9:40 am

Guys, chaps, blokes...................

Mucho thanks for your help in this matter, I really do appreciate the effort you've put in.
I've spent a while now going through your explanations and illustrations and I do believe it makes sense - enough that whilst reading through it I can hear myself saying "Yes, that makes sense, and ooh! that's a good idea etc."

So you see, perhaps easy for you cheps! But for me it carries that all important "confidence" factor. I shall be able to proceed now with the confidence that it will work - and if there's a problem it's not with the thinking but rather my application of it! So, it will be a case of simply tracking down my mistake - he says!!!

Again.............. allow me to expand my thanks for all your help.


PS............ Ian, yes! it is "Santo's"........... realizing my totally rookie mistake of allowing Belle Lane to become too big a project for a first timer - Santo's will become the Estate managers office - total expediency you understand? But I need to get a good start on Top Yard so it doesn't lose momentum.
Plus of course Gordon's turned this some sort of Border conflict stroke Challenge - Oh, he'll deny it course!!!
KBO .......................... Andi.

Cross Kitter
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 212
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:23 pm
Location: The Duchy of Cornwall, Just to the west of England
Interests: G Scale

Postby Cross Kitter » Sun May 23, 2010 8:19 pm

Hi Andi,

Fabulous drawing at the start. I too am hopeless at soldering. I can solder my fingers together and that's about it. So I use the following to get the power into my track http://www.roco.com/products/Roco/42613.aspx just need to slip them onto a join drill a couple of little holes to drop them through the baseboard and hey presto you are well away. Peco now do a great "Plug and Play" electrical system that covers all the switches etc that you will need, just ask at your local model shop and they will be able to help.
Simon the "not at all cross"-kitter.
I'm looking for that decrepit look. What, I just need to look in the mirror?


Return to “Modelling Matters”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests

cron