Track laid. So much sweat and cursing for just 60 cm.
I pre-curved the track by hand, which was like wrestling with a snake (though I have not actually done that yet). I would tweak the track a few times and it would stay straight; another tweak and it would suddenly bend sharply, earlier bends would change shape, and it would mysteriously change length.
I spiked it to the wood sleepers using a variety of spikes - peco track pins in places that would be covered later; or pins with the head filed down to approximate a spike to hold the track down; or pins with no head (an easy way to make a good-looking spike, I heard about this from NZ modeller Peter Ross). The latter only hold the rail from moving sideways but this is mostly what is needed.
This track will be covered later and has the big-head spikes. I fitted the two PCB sleepers before I started to hold the rails together - the holes are to add the power wires (and the saw cuts near the holes are so it stays soldered to the rail when I solder the wire on):
This track, at the wharf, mostly has the spikes with filed or no heads:
Spiking went easily. I followed a suggestion by Glen Anthony to thread flex track sleepers onto the top of the rails to hold them to gauge. I found this was not foolproof and would have liked to have a gauge.
Brush painting after laying was a pain - I think everyone finds that. I will grow moss on the blobs of paint on the sleepers. I found an easy way to colour the sleeper under the track (to simulate rust, oil & brake lining that falls near the track) - just touch a brush loaded with some artist's oil paint dissolved in a lot of turps to the sleeper one side of the rail. It spreads out nicely on both sides for a few mm.
It all ended up to gauge and surprisingly strong. But it was a lot of work and I would lay it differently next time.