An American Style Carriage

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Geeky Gecko
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Postby Geeky Gecko » Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:27 am

I've put the bogies to one side for the moment.

I decided to make some hinges and hang the doors. The hinges are made from paper fitted around a trackpin:
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Here is one half of each hinge fitted to door. I have fitted (glued) a shortened pin to each, the bottom one has a longer pin to aid fitting.
I have used the pointy end to make easier to fit in place:


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The door in place:
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The pins just drop into the bottom half of each hinge meaning the door can be removed when in the open position simply by lifting.
Refitting is a little trickier but made easier by inserting the tip of the bottom pin first before aligning the top pin.
Last edited by Geeky Gecko on Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stefan

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Postby MrPlantpot » Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:35 am

Beautiful...... now all you need to do is make a working latch and door handles :wink:

Thinking about the bogies. Is it the 'fixed axles' where the 'slop' is, or the pivot/anchorage to the coach? All I can see in the pictures above, looks like a simple pin fixing to the floor; is that what you are using, or is it a little more positive so that you only get rotational movement? A wider bearing surface to the floor might solve the problem. :) Good Luck
My Mum calls me Steve.
1:32 on 16·5mm track. Gnot strictly minimum gauge... but it is the minimum that I'm working with !
And now... a critter in 1/24th... from scratch!

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Geeky Gecko
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Postby Geeky Gecko » Thu Dec 29, 2011 1:04 pm

I did think about a door latch, Steve, to fit inside the door structure before construction but dismissed it as beyond my capabilities - too small. An external one would still be possible.....
The bogies are secured by a screw with no play. I think the problem lies with the movable axles having too much play as a result of increasing the thickness of the bottom layer during construction. I have reduced this play and attached weight to the bogies. This has improved the situation.
Stefan

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Postby michael » Thu Dec 29, 2011 3:36 pm

Very nice solution for the hinges Stefan, they look really sharp
Regards Michael
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Postby Glen A » Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:17 pm

Nice idea for the hinges.

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Postby Adrian » Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:43 pm

I've put the bogies to one side for the moment.

I decided to make some hinges and hang the doors.

Happens to me all the time......
Problems with one bit so move on to something different.....

Trouble with me is I rarly get back to the bit with the problem :oops:

Stefan, with the hinges, did you do any thing with the paper bits to make them harder ?
ie coating with white glue or super glue ?
Or are they just painted ?

The whole coach is coming together well and providing me with ideas for future projects

Thank you
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Postby Geeky Gecko » Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:38 pm

Adrian, I use printer paper coated in neat pva glue both sides and allowed to dry before cutting into a strip. I find I come up with solutions when I'm not trying, walking the dog or sleeping, or I summon up the strength to scrap something and start again.
Stefan

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Postby Geeky Gecko » Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:22 pm

Well it's been 2 years since my last post about this.
I got stalled when the bogies and chassis didn't live up to expectations.
I said previously:
Rather than just having a bogie that wobbles about it's central pivot, I wanted independent equalisation for it's axles and an ability to rock fore and aft

So here I have made some bogies that fit the same chassis and simply wobble about to cope with track irregularities.

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They are not perfect but are not very visible under the carriage.

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The wheels are 12 mm diameter and the lateral pivot is relatively higher so the top heaviness is reduced. Some shots taken during construction:

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Construction is with styrene using a jig to keep the wheelbase equal.

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The axles run in pin point bearings. Hollow sections are filled with lead shot.

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More lead ballast.

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The chassis is carried on the heads of pins fitted in the top of the bogies. These allow plenty of fore and aft rocking. The pins on one bogie are fitted further apart than on the other to control sideways tilt.


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The bearing boxes are from card and are hollow, filled with lead shot.
Stefan

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Postby rue_d_etropal » Sat Jan 18, 2014 6:41 pm

simply wobble about to cope with track irregularities

So is this what they call 'compensation' :lol:

Biggest problem I have with wheels and track, is fine standards now being used. Odd especially as Liliput(Bachmann) sell wheels with more tread so stay on track better. Wish I could replace wheels on my Tenshodo units easily. I want trains to run, not just look pretty on a dusty shelf. :roll:
Simon Dawson
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Narrow gauge Francophile interested in 1m, 60cm,50cm , 40cm and smaller gauges . Build in scales from 1/6th to 1/24th. Also 1/32nd and 1/35th using 16.5mm track to represent 50cm and 60cm gauges.
http://www.rue-d-etropal.com

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Postby Willow Creek Traction » Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:53 am

Looks like some early standard, and other gauge, horse drawn coaches, which makes sense.
Maybe there is a want to have the fun of making the wheels compensated.
later, Forrest Today's scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality. -- Nikola Tesla, July, 1934

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Postby steerngo » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:58 am

rue_d_etropal wrote:[quote} Wish I could replace wheels on my Tenshodo units easily. I want trains to run, not just look pretty on a dusty shelf. :roll:


Some bachmann wheels will fit on spuds. As on some Backwoods miniatures loco kits,.

Ken

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Postby Geeky Gecko » Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:09 pm

Had a go at the roof:

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I wanted the canopy ends to have the complex curves that seem so typical of passenger cars in my memory. The centre is card and the ends are sections cut from the lid of an instant coffee jar. I am now deciding if I should fit it with a clerestory section.

Here is one of the lamps I have made:

Image
Stefan


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